Canon 6D and Sigma 35mm Art 1.4 not compatible?

Discussion in 'Technical Troubleshooting' started by Shannon, Jan 14, 2022.

  1. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Hi everyone. I keep banging my head against the wall with my Sigma 35mm Art 1.4. I am well aware of the notorious issues of soft focus with this lens but I'm stubborn and keep trying to make it work. Not sure if calibration would help since it can be so inconsistent.

    Here are my latest test samples. I chose my daughter this time since I usually shoot people but I have done numerous tests over the last few months, people as well as stationary objects. It seems to focus most terribly on faces, especially if more than 7-8 feet away, but it is hit or miss with objects, too. Mounted to tripod, F2, SS 1/200, ISO400, 4 foot distance. I repeated twice, same result:

    Photo 1: single focus point right over her eye (half pupil and iris, half white and eye rim). Seems soft and dark. Crisper on her shirt, to me.

    Photo 2: for kicks, focused on her hair line right above the eye. Shockingly/not shockingly, it looks clearer than the first.

    Photo 3: Live view focusing over half her face and hair. Seems clearest of all. Also brighter. Is that normal with Live View or does underexposure using viewfinder (meter said it was properly exposed) indicate a lens problem?

    Thoughts? Contact Sigma for repairs? Throw it in the trash? It's so frustrating. I appreciate anyone reading all this and can help. 1Olivia_Sigma35_F2_SS200 (over pupil).jpg 3Olivia_Sigma35_F2_SS200 (hairline above eye).jpg 4Olivia_Sigma35_F2_SS200 (liveview over half face and hairline).jpg
     

  2. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    Several things to unpack, it seems that you do have a sharp copy of the lens so that is a non issue, I would expect nothing less from an Art lens to be honest.

    One thing i noticed is the camera is in slightly different positions/locations even though there was mention of a tripod,
    • Now 1st problem is DOF is very narrow at f2. Your looking at 5 inches at 4 ft, and 3 inches at 3feet so its a pretty narrow room for error here regarding focus, which doesn't help.
    • Secondly when using the standard AF are you using the center point and recompose? Image seems to have the eye a bit below center, and if your on a tripod maybe your using a non center point to focus. Not exactly sure how much this plays into it, but if its not the center point as you know the other focus points are not quite as accurate. You are not combining servo mode with a tripod or focus and recompose are you?
    upload_2022-1-14_11-38-46.png upload_2022-1-14_11-38-27.png
    • More testing with a focus chart could reveal if the center point of the AF is dead on or not using this lens or if it needs micro adjustment. I would suggest doing some testing for lens calibration / accuracy, you can look up the process online, but it usually used a ruler and or a chart with rulers and verifying the center point accuracy in a close up controlled situation. There was another recent thread with good links regarding this.
    • The last photo using live view uses a completely different way to focus, live view uses the image sensor, it is slower than your AF system but more accurate.
    I understand struggling with faces at 7 or 8 feet as they would be rather small objects to have the focus system pick up. I am assuming the issues are bad when shooting quite wide like this at f2, because of a small DOF, Its hard to speculate without the details of what the environment was where you were shooting a wide lens wide open and a subject at a distance, but definitely making it less than ideal for the AF system, and in that case with this older system, live view may be your option in those situations. I'm just thinking outloud is all, but if i was shooting this lens I would go be at f2 or f4 usually with the subject close to me and to pull them away from the background, or the other direction where i would stop down and make them part of an environmental portrait.
     
  3. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    Summary: Old AF technology, really fast lens show almost wide open: You may have a fine micro adjustment issue, but the process for grabbing focus / settings may have played a roll here just as easily.
     
  4. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Hi there, thanks for taking the time to help me. You're right the tripod did move forward between photos a tad, to give more space between me and the wall lol. Not by much, an inch or two. I used 2 second timer, tripod didn't move during shots. I used One Shot, not Servo and I rarely use focus and recompose, definitely didn't here.

    Ok so maybe I'm expecting too much of this lens. I think you're saying, bring subject closer if shooting wide open or stop up if shooting a few feet away or more. Correct?
     
  5. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Oh I just got a reply back from Sigma repair, who I also reached out to:
    ------------
    New reply:


    Hello,



    We usually see problems with focus error on Canon bodies because the sensor setup differs from one copy to the next, much more so than with Nikon. Also, fast servo modes and multipoint focusing can cause this as well.



    We often do custom calibration of these lenses to customers' Canon bodies because of this. If your body has an AF micro-adjustment feature you may be able to correct this yourself. Otherwise, please send the body as well if you can and we will correct this here, please see below.



    Package the product and relevant accessories carefully, using ample padding materials and a sturdy mailing container to prevent damage in transit.
    ------------

    I'll try MA and see how that goes.
     
  6. GDN

    GDN Well-Known Member

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    My thoughts on this is that they look a little soft. I am wondering if the lens is front focusing a little bit.

    No, don't do that.

    I'm hearing you.

    This lens should be giving you sharp images. Just out of curiosity, when you used live view to focus, did you use the cameras AF? If yes, are you able to take an image of something using live view, and you focus the lens manually using x10 magnification, camera on a tripod. And can you let us know how sharp the image is on the point that you focused on. My line of thinking is to try and rule out any optical problems with the lens for starters.

    Gary
     
  7. Craig Sherriff

    Craig Sherriff Well-Known Member Site Supporter

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    Welcome o the forum, Shannon. not much more I can add to the comments, that would be helpful, the members who have given advice are knowledgeable and worth taking in what has been suggested. All the best with it.
     
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  8. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Hi Gary, thank you for your comment. I forgot to mention that; I used AF when in live view. Good idea to try manual - I'll do that in the morning when I have better light and will report back.

     
  9. Caladina

    Caladina Well-Known Member

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    i think the live view image reveals the culprit as i expected it would when reading the first two descriptions,
    do you know how to do the focus adjustment using a ruler at 45 degrees to the lens head on?
     
  10. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    Hello Shannon,
    Your definitely not expecting too much to have sharp images from the lens, the big question is if it needs a slight micro adjustment for better results from the standard AF. I still wonder about the AF selection, is just the center showing red in you raw file? Or are others picking up the shoulder or hair? When i put a ruler on the mage in paint the eyes were clearly below the center and just to the right. Which makes me question if the center point actually hit the forehead and included multiple focus points shifting focus to the contrast in the hair.

    Conceptually: i was not specifically suggesting you had to shoot any scene a specific way, I simply was thinking through the situation and general use cases when shooting, Usually I try to go all in with removal or inclusion with the environment. Shooting that wide open at a distance doesn't seem like something I would do normally. I simply wanted to get you thinking about picking such wide F stops consciously. Otherwise yeah stopping down a stop or two will work wonders for portraits. F2 and wider you will find the having the whole head in focus is hard anyway when you are working with short distance to subject and only a few inches of depth of field.
     
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  11. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Ok, so I was busy this morning. At both Sigma Repair's and Caladina's suggestion above, I did a microadjustment using an online focus sheet I printed off. It was indeed front focusing. After adjusting it a whopping +18, it seems to have fixed it based on the results I took with the focus sheet.

    Unfortunately, I don't think that's the only issue. I took some more test shots, first of an orchid at different distances (8 inches for near, 2 feet for medium, 4 feet for far) using both AF center point as usual, as well as manual focus using 10x magnification at Gary's suggestion. I used AV mode at F1.4, which I realise is going to be no sweet spot for any lens so consider this a bit of a stress test. I still think AF is giving softer focus compared to manual...the farther it gets, the worse it gets to me. The far shot, with AF, I had to take it 3 times to get any kind of reasonable focus (despite it "beeping" saying it focused). However, even 8 inches away, the focus on the pistil of the orchid on the left (our left), which was my focus point, seems off...looks like it grabbed focus more on the pistil to the right, which seems impossible to me but yet it did. Yes, I used a tripod, 2 second timer. What do you think?

    Photos are here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/187947193@N07/shares/YnR166

    I also took some shots of my daughters again (same link). Not on a tripod but I wanted something more realistic since I am usually not taking photos of my family with a tripod as I prefer more documentary style. For this I stopped down to F2.2 and F2.5 (each daughter respectively), which is still wide, I know, but given the lighting in my house, it is what it is. They all appear a bit soft to me still although the closer ones seem slightly better than the farther ones. And again, maybe I expect too much but I figure a $1100 CAD 1.4 lens should not be that soft at F2.2 and F2.5.

    I think this lens and AF just does poorly with anything that is not high contrast or high colour....which is bad particularly for photos of people since faces usually don't have a lot of contours or contrast. :(
     
  12. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Hi Johnsey, thank you. I forgot to reply back to you yesterday...the photo you posted above of my daughter with the cross point, that's the photo in which I focused on her hair line exactly above her eye, right where the crosspoint in your photo meets. I did that as a bit of a test, since it's higher contrast than the eye. It seems a bit sharper to me than when I focused on her eye. I know the DOF will not be much at F2 but even focusing on her hair above the eye, at 4 feet away, it should've given me at least 1-2 inches in sharp focus, no? Least that's according to my DOF app lol.

     
  13. Caladina

    Caladina Well-Known Member

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    if you test it with a diagonal ruler then you will see exactly how much it is out, use both mirror and live view, live view should be spot on the millimeter you focused on
     
  14. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Hi Caladina, I only have a metal ruler, which doesn't really work, I used the focus test sheet instead. It was at a diagonal. Like I said, it was front focusing, which MA seemed to fix but pretty sure it just has inconsistent focus altogether, unless it's focused on a large (or close), contrasty, colourful object. I realise AF systems need some contrast but this lens seems way more particular than any others I've used.

    *Edit: I just realised that the post I posted this morning about my updated tests shots is still waiting mod approval...maybe because I linked my flickr account (with the test shots).

     
  15. Caladina

    Caladina Well-Known Member

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    is it inconsistent in live view as well as mirror view (sorry not sure what you call it when its shot with the mirror down, i guess to dslr shooters its called normal mode)
     
  16. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    No it seems spot on using manual live view (I didn't try AF live view), but AF in view finder is soft or refocuses elsewhere. My post with all the photos is still awaiting moderation unfortunately.
     
  17. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    How far off on the rule was +18 that is a pretty strong adjustment. I can definitely see the eye why the eye would be soft if its front focusing multiple inches since we are only working with a few inches of DOF The only thing I can think about the second shot is that it may be an extra couple of millimeters behind where the first was and caught the back end of the depth of field.
    upload_2022-1-16_12-41-48.png
     
  18. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    I'm not sure I am going to be as critical on your new shots as you are. Again, the focus systems have come a long way in the last decade. I took your far away shot and just dug into that since you mentioned it getting worse far away. This is the sharpest part of the image.... behind and in front are soft, so I would say that it is hitting the spot.

    upload_2022-1-16_12-55-1.png

    Your manual shot seems to be a slight bit brighter, not really sure its sharper, but the 2 inches of DOF that your working with is hitting the same spot on both images. Quick question do you have issues with sharpness on other lenses?
    The slight softness I see here could just be lack of an unsharp mask being applied. I can see why it would be something you would pick up on smaller finer lines as they get farther from the camera. What is your post processing workflow and what do you use to edit?
     
  19. Shannon

    Shannon New Member

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    Yeah +18 is definitely a lot...I adjusted by only 5 at first and then went up in increments of 5. +10, it was still front focusing, +15, slightly better, +18 seemed to get it right.

    Is an unsharp mask applied in camera? I have done no edits to those other than exporting to JPEG via Lightroom. There is the "sharpen for screen" checked.

    Edit: forgot to respond to your other question, I don't think my other lens has issues, no but the trouble is it's not a fair comparison. My only other lens is a F4 75-300mm zoom lens, which I rarely use. I did take some test shots with it this weekend too and it seems ok.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2022
  20. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

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    Generally the manufacturers dial in sharpening when they write a JPG, raw is exactly as the sensor sees it, so raw images at 100% are usually just a hair soft on edges because of the filters in front of them inside the camera, some people have even had the AA filter removed in some cameras.
    if your using LR, you would sharpen as a last step in the editing before export.
     

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