Hi, I'm just a begginer in photography so I'm not sure whether this is the problem of my technique, the problem of my lenses or whether this is not problem at all (and i'm just pixel peeper). Lot of my photos are not sharp enough I would say. Some are though but not all of them. I've tried few things: Few ways how to hold the camera to prevent shaking Stabilizer ON and OFF (it's supposed to be 4-step IS). Without stabilizer it's usually worse, but it's too 'soft' even with stabilization Live view vs viewfinder - viewfinder is usually worse Aperture - aperture around 8 is better, but still not that sharp i would expect AF microadjusetements - subjectively it's maybe better, hard to tell. AF method - spot, 1-point, expand, zone... I'm using EOS 90D with the kit lenses "EF-S 18-135 IS USM". This lenses have great reviews and are said to be sharp enough. But then it's much cheaper than "EF-S 17-55 f/2.8" or "Sigma 18-35 F/1.8" not to speak about L series. So my question is: Is this normal for this type of lenses? Would better one render sharper images? Is it just my? But I tried 70-200L IS USM II and i could make better images with that (professional) glass. Or is it supposed to be sharper (1/100 with 4-step IS should be sharp even hand holded) and I should take the lenses to the retailer to check? I have original jpegs and raw files but i'm posting just the screenshots from the Canon's Digital Photo Profesional with the AF points displayed (red rectangle), 100% size (so only the 'center' part where the focus was) and with the info on the left. If needed I can post original images. Thanks,
Matej, looking at your images I see the ones that are using shutter speeds of 1/15th, 1/20th, 1/30th are too slow for hand held images. the image of the rose may be too close to the subject o get sharp focus. I suggest you use a minium of 1/60th of a second for hand held shots or a good tripod at these low shutter speeds, image stabalization will only help so much. Sometimes at very low shutter speeds, the image stabalization causes blurring it self so turn it off. With the rose shot step back and refocus there is a limit to how close you can get with out the use of macro filters. all the best with it and above all keep trying. your images will improve.
try doing the tape measure test to see if you have back or front focusing going on as the 90D is a mirrored camera look up " back / front focusing" on youtube can you do a live view focus with the 90D? ie shoot with the mirror locked up not being used so the sensor is controlling the auto focus?
One of the issues that you have going on here is camera shake. If you look at the last image of the pine cone, in the background, you can see the moment in the stones as a blurring from roughly 1 to 7 o'clock. This is the direction the camera has moved while the shutter is open. What I would suggest is a faster shutter speed. This can be achieved by increasing the ISO that you are using. In a shaded scene like this, try ISO 800, or even ISO 1600. The same thing is going on in the third and fourth images as well. I would again suggest increasing the ISO that you are using as the light levels fall. Let us know how you get on. Gary
Ok so I took a bunch of photos outside with higher shutter speeds (1/200, 1/320) and with smaller aperture (7 or 8) and much higher ISO. Now the pictures looks much more sharp even without IS. The thing is, I already have small compact camera (PowerShot G7X MkII) which can produce sharp images with times like 1/10 and with aperture being wide open (1.8 at the wide end and 2.8 at the 'telefocus' end). I used it lot during travelling and after a year or so i decided to invest to 'real' camera. So now it feels like the more expensive DSLR camera (and 90D should be on of the best Canons's DSLR APS-C) needs even more expensive lenses to keep up with point-and-shoot compact. Not to mention the compact have a lens of 24-100 f/1.8-2.8 (equivalent of FF) and there's nothing like that for DSLR (I guess if it was it would cost thousands of euros). I just didn't expected that to be honest
Its about cost. you can get a 1.2 lens for full frame, but it will cost $2k due the engineering of a lens for that large of a sensor. I would caution not to compare point and shoot with larger formats too far. The lens on you G7 is 8mm-36mm and has IS built into the camera, it also weights nothing. Stabilization involves some math and has to do with the lens length and weight and amount of travel. and how fast the shutter speed is. The general rule of photography is 1/X the lens length not considering IS, and also I don't go with zoom length i go with the longest length of a zoom. So a 70-200 you should shoot at least 1/200 no IS. You may be able to make 1/60 work with IS, but I only push IS a few stops. Now your G7 has a 8mm-36mm lens so with IS its not wonder you can get some decent shots at 1/20 of a sec, the sesor is about 25% the size of your dslr as well hence why the lens is soooo wide and fast compared to the DSLR, Your Iphone will be even smaller lenses and wider sub 1 apertures.... Your G7 is the 1" 13mm x 9mm roughly..
