Taking pictures of the Northern Lights

Discussion in 'Beginner Questions' started by NEIL YOUNG, Oct 9, 2024 at 4:31 PM.

  1. NEIL YOUNG

    NEIL YOUNG New Member

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2022
    Messages:
    3
    Equipment:
    sl3
    I think i changed something on my SL3, I was getting great shots of Aurora last year.
    I know i changed a few functions and now the pics are not the same.
    I'm shooting in RAW but i was getting better pics in JPEG before.
    I use a tripod and wired remote. but they're looking a bit blurry now for some reason.
    I also try different exposure times from 5 seconds up to 15 seconds as im shooting the Aurora.
    Can White Balance change things?
    My fastest lens is 2.8 and i usually use it set at 18 and never has these issues prior.
    Any suggestions on settings to try and improve things?
    Thanks
    Neil
     

  2. johnsey

    johnsey Site Moderator Staff Member Site Supporter

    Joined:
    Apr 21, 2017
    Messages:
    2,243
    Location:
    Fargo, ND
    Equipment:
    5dMk4, 5dsR, 5dMk2, 20D, 70-200 2.8L IS, 100mm 2.8 Macro USM, 50mm 1.4, 85mm 1.8, 17-40mm 4.0L, TS-E 24mm 3.5L II, Rokinon 14mm 2.8; Pixma Pro-100
    JPG will do in camera processing which will make images more contrasty or punchy colors, RAW does not, it expects you to use software to fine tune to your flavor, This does not change how it exposes per say. Under or over exposure are still do to not metering correctly. Wbalance can change the color of the white, but i doubt that's your issue. I really would need to know what is different/wrong.

    I'm making the assumption you problem is exposure....
    5-15 sec seems a bit short if your exposing a night scene at f18. F18 will give you plenty of depth of field, way more than needed if your only shooting the sky. You should definitely compare ISO shutter and fstop to last years images. You can shoot more wide for sky images as the sky is all on a similar plane, i would keep iso not cranked for noise, and i would tripod and shoot a long shutter to get the needed light.
    Exact settings are impossible because the correct exposure changes with how bright the sky is, it is all about metering, and how well you metered the exposure.
     
  3. Caladina

    Caladina Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2020
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    1,836
    Equipment:
    Canon M50
    Canon 18-45mm m, Canon 18-150mm m, Canon 55-200mm m, Canon 22mm m, Canon 28mm m macro,
    Sigma 100-400c ef, Sigma 18-35mm art ef,
    7artisans 7.5mm m, Laowa 100mm macro ef, laowa 9mm zeroD m, Vintage M42 Lenses:
    Ashi Super - Takumar 1.8 / 55mm,
    at ƒ18 are you not getting any softness from diffraction?
     
  4. GDN

    GDN Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2018
    Messages:
    2,198
    Location:
    South Island, NZ
    Equipment:
    A little Canon stuff
    Maybe post a before image, and a now image so we can see what you are experiencing.

    But I would look at setting my camera to manual. Then you will be able to select the shutter speed manually. Select f2.8 as your aperture, and something like ISO 800 or 1600. Focus your lens manually using live view. Use your tripod and cable release as well.

    Finally, post some images.

    Gary
     

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