Hi Guys, OK. I have just bought a 20-200 2.8L IS lens, stuck it on my 2000D with a Vivitar 2x and it looks poop. I have fringing and chromatic aberations all over the place. Is there something I have done wrong with assembling my equipment? See Attached Poop Photos Many thanks, Alec Canon 2000D, Vivitar 2XMC4 AF Canon Zoom Lens EF 70-200mm 1:2.8 L IS USM
Do you have the accompanying image? I assume this is cropped, and knowing the focus point spot would be nice. I assume you have no issues at 200mm without the TC (tele-converter)? I have two assumptions with this setup it could be missed focus or a crap tele-converter. It is probably a little of both. Missed focus can be extreemly easy at 400mm, for example at 200ft from subject that is about 12 feet total of DOF so it is a small window to hit. I see you u used a pretty fast shutter which is good, given that you added the TC i think 1/500 or faster as smart. Did you hand hold with IS, which IS mode? Given the subject I doubt you tripod mounted, that would introduce motion blur in that case. Back to the TC you have, you may have a issue with sharpness, but t is soft enough that I think focus is missed also. The fringing, I think that is due to using a cheap TC, even quality ones will add color fringing to good lenses.
Hi, How do i know what the focus point spot is? I can not upload the image here, max file size 1MB. Yes, it mostly happens at full zoom, i thought maybe I was missing the focus point, so I tried closing the apeture to give me a great a depth of field, but it didn't help too much. So, what would be a better setup to use? I mean, it's obvious to just go and buy a decent tele-converter but, are my subjects really too far away, do i need different equipment? Thanks for your reply, helpful information
I think it depends on the raw viewer you use, if you open the raw file in canon software you can validate the focus point. I belive LR does this through plugins. I would say that if you can confirm that the lens works fine in all situations without the TC. And that the TC with a very fast shutter, lets say 1/1000 at f/11 can't achieve a sharp image it is safe to say the TC would be the issue. You can start by getting a 1.4 or 2x from canon which you can trust the quality more than vivitar. Then a possible solution would be to find a 300 for 400 mm prime. You can also look at other zooms like the 100-400 or Sigmas 150-600. But you have a great lens with the 70-200 so I would keep that and add others if needed, you wont have the speed of that 2.8 if you go longer anyway. Also not all lenses are compatible with mounting a TC... https://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/8/0300004658/01/extender-ef-2x-iii-en.pdf
The first thing that I would do is remove the converter and just use the lens and camera to see what sort of results you get. By doing this, you will rule out the 70-200 mm lens being faulty, and it will then point towards the converter being the problem if you are getting sharp images. What also springs to mind is how much you have cropped these images. If you are doing small bird images, maybe 400 mm is not going to be long enough for you. As a point of interest, I have a 400 mm Canon lens, and I am getting sharper images that what you are currently getting with your combination. Let us know how you get on. Gary
Hi Alex, I have a few questions to ask so that we may be able to help you obtain better quality images. 1. Are you hand holding the camera, or using a tripod? When you're at 190mm, or 160mm you have to take in to account the crop factor of your camera which is 1.6. That means at 190mm you have the effect of a 304mm lens and with the 2x converter the lens is now 608mm. This is a difficult lens to manage hand held without a lot of practice. your images look like lens blur to me, not OOF. It may be worth purchasing a monopod to help steady the camera. 2. In your OP you state that the lens has IS, was it turned on? If your camera was mounted on a tripod and you had IS turned on this could be part of the issue. IS gets confused if there is no movement to correct. 3. When you open your images in DPP and double click on the image do you see a red square, or several red squares. These are the point/s the camera focused on. I know with my 100D I do not see the red squares, but I do with images taken with the 7DII. This feature may not be available on the 2000D, I had a quick look through the manual on line and could not see in the settings if it could be turned on. If your camera has that feature it would be under Playback > AF Point Display > on/off. 4. it is not unusual to get chromatic aberration when shooting a light coloured object with the lens wide open. Try dropping down to f5.6 - f8.0. When I shoot birds I shoot in manual, typically 1/1600, f8.0 and set the ISO to auto.
